How many times have you been to Tavarua and when was your first trip?

I’ve been to Tavarua about 20 times. My first trip was when I was 19. I had no idea how to ride the wave at cloudbreak, and felt a need to get my act together out there. It’s probably the hardest wave in the world. But I also believe it’s the best.

Restaurants or Cloud Break?

I really go to Tavarua for Cloudbreak. One wave or there will change your life. There’s so many times I’ve backed out of a wave and thought it was a closeout only to see it blow it’s brains out down then line. It’s so intimidating looking at such a long wall grinding down the reef. But when you finally sack up, there’s a wave of a lifetime waiting for you if you want it. I also would like to touch on the island. The fijians are the most welcoming and kind people you’ll find. The resort is amazing. I put it all as my favorite place in the world.

How big was this swell and how were the crowds?

I went to this swell hoping it would be maxing 10 foot ledge. Meaning no wash throughs, and just doubling up madness. On the rise and fall of the swell it has really great moments. The peak of the swell I got washed through the entire reef 12 times in 3 hours. And unfortunately broke 2 boards in the spin cycles of it. But I did manage one wave that made my whole trip in between the wash throughs. Stoked!

Favorite model to ride out there? Why?

Up to 8 feet, I typically ride a 5’9″ 6 channel that I get specially shaped. It has a very thick deck next to the stringer and under my chest which allows for paddling. Although it has a shortboard nose and round pulled in tail. And thin rails to knife drops. When it goes the 10 to 12 foot and washing through I like to ride a 6’3″ taco grinder. At that point I feel I need a little more length with all the water moving. Then when it goes 18 feet beyond its time for a 9’0″. That’s when it moves out to the third ledge and goes bonkers beyond belief.

Would you rather be on a bigger board that’s less maneuverable and coast in or be on a shorter board and take off under the ledge/lip?

I’m most comfortable on shorter boards. Something that changed my life was surfing with Kelly Slater at Cloudbreak. I was on a 6’6″ and he was on a 5’9″. During the session he looked at me and said I was riding too big of a board. I brushed him off and laughed thinking no way, you’re Kelly slater and only you would be riding that short of a board right now. Well, I decided to take his advice, and it changed everything for me. I was outrunning barrels and trying to slow down on the longer board. The shorter board allowed me to sit under the double up ledge and take off late. Than rather than trying to slow down with a longer board, I was able to match the speed inside the tube from the new gained maneuverability. That ending said I’ll never surf like Kelly. Especially at cloudbreak. No one surfs as good as him here. But I’ve transferred the shorter board in barrels mentality everywhere I travel now. Especially at slabs. You just don’t want the length dropping into a steep, quick, barrel with a lot of curve.