• 04.16.2021

“Boards and waves will change constantly,” says Slater, “but the positions of the body are the one thing you are totally in control of at all times.” Photo: Wolcott / AFrame

by Kelly Slater

Speed. The essence of riding waves. There is no one magical secret to moving on a wave, but to extract as much speed as humanly possible from a wave depends on your knowledge of key elements such as equipment, your body, and the wave itself. Without a little help from everyone else, you could spend a long time trying to work it out yourself.

In all forms of knowledge, people have passed down information from one generation to the next, and now, with technological advances, information gets spread to everyone at the speed of light. If Jordy does a rodeo at Macaroni’s you can bet you’re gonna see it on YouTube in a day or two. That doesn’t mean you’ll be able to do it, but you can see it nonetheless. With that, advancements in surfing speed up for the average person. You could say that surfing progresses because of all the different approaches and ideas that guys have on a wave, relative to their abilities.

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  • 04.16.2021