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Kelly Slater Ate My Wave

  • 04.16.2021

Images © 2011 Steve Bissell/SANTA BARBARA SURFERImages © 2011 Steve Bissell/SANTA BARBARA SURFER

Kelly Slater is so perfect…he’s scary. You don’t think he somehow made a pact with the devil…do you? Two weeks ago at the end of that Teahupoo swell I was throwin’ down some jpegs at a local beach, enjoying the sun and the general California vibe when there was a small, but noticeable disturbance in the force. Something was magnifing the energy level, and then I saw him…Slater slowly moving like a cat through the boulders blocking the beach, and then stood at the edge of the tideline and studied ocean-wave canvas for about 20 minutes. The odd thing was as he stood there, in full wetsuit, and everytime the lapping waves would approach his feet, he would make a point of backing up and totally avoiding the reaching foamy fingers of the sea. “Say what?” Strange for sure, but who knows what kind of relationship this guy has with the ocean. Maybe it was some kind of a game between her (Mother Ocean) and he…kinda like a tease, before he finally joined with her for their daily get-together. Now that’s rare stuff, but, I did see that. Why else would the man care if his footsies got wet while he studied the surf?

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  • 04.16.2021
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